I had decided prior to leaving home that the bike ride would be pain enough and that it was important to rest my weary limbs in comfortable hotels. So I have uptil now stayed in plush surroundings.
St. Jean Pied des Port: Hotel les Pyrenees
Pamplona: Hotel Europa
Logrono: Hotel Portales
Santo Domingo: Parador Santo domingo
Burgos: Hotel Meson del Cid
Carrion: Monasterio San Zoilo
Leon: Parador de Leon
Up until Burgos, I felt quite justified with my decision. After a days cycling, there is a distinct smell of Feramons that hangs around me....not too pleasant for me ....decidely unpleasant for anyone who gets too close. Now lets imagine this multiplied by 30 (the usual number of pilgrims sleeping in bunk beds in one room). I smell bad enough (my nose tells me so in very clear terms "Jo u stink"), the thought of assaulting my nose with the feromons of 30 others has kept me well away from any Albergue.
Futher thoughts to support my "comfy choices". At the end of the day I usually throw my self into a CLEAN bath to relax my over exerted thigh muscles. I would not want to do this in a bath used by 31 smelly pilgrims (myself included).
Over the last few days however, I have had a constant nagging voice, telling me to try an Albergue. No less than 4 different people and 1 situation have added their cries to support the Albergue.
1) the lady at the Albergue in Santo Domingo
2) two ladies in the museum in Santo Domingo
3) Jose ( A pilgrim I met, who was pushing his bike up a stoney path). He waited for me at the top as he could push faster than me. He clapped as I reached the top and gave me some chocolate; milk chocolate with hazel nuts my favourite. I was delighted and sat down to talk with him. He also had a specialized bike. I thought mine was the most customised you could get....his was even more customised than mine. I told him about my encounter with the mud from the camino. He laughed and showed me his mud guards. With these, the wheels never block he added proudly. I took a mental note. If I ever do a pilgimage again, I would get mud guards like his. He asked me where I was heading and I told him Carrion. He replied that is still 40km away and it is 2:30 pm. Will u make it? I replied of course. He then asked me where I was staying: I told him. He immediately took out his guide book and started telling me about all the Albergues along the way to Santiago and that I need not stay at expensive hotels. I replied the hotels are not too bad @ €70 per night. He then told me that he pays between €3-€5 a night not including breakfast. I was stunned. He advised to stay at the municipal Albergues, they are better kept. I did not need to do the maths.....Albergues are definatley ahead in terms of price. I would have to try one!
4) Man at Albergue in Carrion. I went into the Albergue to get my pilgrim passport stamped. Before I had even had a chance to say good evening. He apologised for not being ready (I had to wait five minutes) and told me that he had made some soup which I could warm in the microwave, where I could shower and where I could wash my muddy clothes. I then greeted him and rather meekly asked if he could stamp my passport. He said ofcourse but where are you staying. Yikes.......I would have to own up. I told him I had already reserved at the Monasterio San Zoilo. I wanted the ground to swallow me. Here was someone offering me such hospitality, warmth and dare I say it "love" for €5 and I was going to pay €70 for probably more comfort but probably less warmth and definately NO "love". Shame on you Jo!
5) Orange juice at Mansilla de las Mulas. After 6 and a half hours cycling I needed a quick break so I decided to stop at the Albergue at Mansilla which also had a restaurant. It was just coming up to 4pm. As I arrived I was greeted with Ola, Hello, Hallo, Welcome from many different voices. Pilgrims from allover the world who were all staying here for the night. I went into the cafe and ordered orange juice, used the facilities and then prepared to leave. As I was about to leave some more pilgrims arrived. They were greeted with hugs, congratulations and all manner of well wishes. I was taken aback. I watched and took stock. There was a strong sense of camaraderie between the pilgrims. It was clear that they knew each other. They had probably met at albergues at previous stages along the Camino. The sense of camaraderie does not exist at the hotels. Was I missing out on something?
I made my mind up there and then that I must try at least one Albergue. Despite all the voices, I still made a reservation at the Parador the Leon...I figured I did nto want to risk an Albergue after 95km which was the next days ride.....when the receptionist told me the price........€180....I still took the room but my mind was made up. I would definatle try an Albergue. So the plan is to stay in an Albergue in Rabanal del Camino on the 19th of April.
I shall give the verdict on this decision on the 20th of April.
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Albergue : Wise, Stupid or Brave decision????
I guess wise and brave. Wise because it allowed me to get even more connected to my fellow pilgrims and the camino, Brave because it took me way out of my comfort zone.
I arrived at the Albuergue circa 5pm after a long slog up 600m altitude meters with 70km in total. I was greeted very warmly. Would I like a drink?. The lady running the Albergue asked to see my pilgrim passport/ credential (only pilgrims are allowed to stay). I enquired about the cost, €5 for a bed. She showed me the sleeping room. A room of 15 bunkbeds. She apologised that there were no more bottom bunks left and I would have to go on top. (I smiled to myself, my sister and I always fought for the top bunk). The dormitory had a very feromony smell to it!!! Quite a few pilgrims had arrived. All the radiators were covered in washed underwear and socks. I swallowed hard. Jo you wanted to get connected........well here's where the connecting starts! I had seen the underpants of my fellow pilgrims! I got underessed and headed for the shower. Oh boy........this was going to be difficult. The shower was clean but tatty. So one washed quickly and did not linger. My poor upper thigh muscles, they were used to getting a long soak in the bath. They did not complain. I got dressed and went out into the communal yard to "connect" with my fellow pilgrims. Everyone had a story to tell. Nacki Javier, Tomas. Thesar, Obama (an oriental guy had been given this nick name), girl from Italy, couple from Galicia. Some of the stories were hilarious.The most memorable was the story of the English City banker doing the Camino. He has a folding bike, wears a suit and tie and cycles max 10km - 15km a day. He stops at every albergue along the way. I'd love to meet this guy just to confirm that this is not a "Camino legend". Dinner was a rowdy affair costing €3. We all talked about the Camino and the pain (walking or biking). We also talked about the day ahead and the dreaded Cebreiro pass a MONSTER 1300m climb coming up for all of us soon. Many more stories were told and then suddenly it was bed time. 10pm. At the Albergues, lights out circa 10pm because the foot pilgrims start early circa 7am. I was glad and went to bed. However, sleep was not possible, I had the largest toad in the world croaking on the lower bunk I hardly slept even with the BA
yellow ear plugs squished into my ears. The morning came slowly, I had hardly slept. I got up had breakfast (hot chocolate with a piece of stale bread) with my camino friends. I was starving and had to start biking the 56km to Villafranca. Oddly for me, my spirits remained high. I said good bye to my friends. Emails etc had been exchanged and I began the slow ride up.
As to be expected, I met some of my friends along the way. I was greeted with kisses and hugs. "Call me if you get into trouble" Javier yelled as I cycled off. Nacki called do not go down the mountain tooo fast...it is dangerous. I smiled, the albergue allows you to get very close to your fellow pilgrims.
Tonight (night of April 20) will be spent at a beautiful hotel...Las Donas in Villa franca. Only costing €55 per night. As I arrived, the lady greeted me politely. I did miss the warmth but I loved sitting in the clean bath!
Lesson to me: I am grateful for the Albergue experience and I should have done this sooner.
Lesson to me: I have a very narrow comfort zone which means that I will get uncomfortable quickly. I need to broaden my comfort zone which means YIKES I need to have more Albergue experiences...
Lesson to me: Next time I get Jose's guide book and search out the good Albergues. There are Albergues that are Excellent B&B's but one has to look hard to find one.
My second Albergue experience: April 22nd
I did say I needed to broaden my comfort zone so here I am staying at another albergue. This time in Palas del Rei. This time seems less painful, the room smelt but I did not wince as I did last time. The Showers were clean but tatty. This time I had a long long long long shower and I feel great. The cost this time €10. I have just had dinner so await night time in 90 minutes. This time I have a small oriental girl sleeping on the bottom bunk. Hopefully she does not snore, and if she does , I'm sure she will do so quietly.
